Monday: The flight schedule starts early in the part of the world.
Typically, MAF plans on a 0600 departure for the first flight of the day.
Today, the pilot I am flying with is Mike.
Having served many years in Papua, Mike is an experienced veteran of these mountains and knows this area like the back of his hand.
 |
| Loading up for the first flight of the day. |
Preflight and passenger loading takes place in front of our well organized flight operations building. Tickets are purchased; baggage is weighed and then sorted by size and weight. Small soft items like duffle bags get stuffed under the seats. Larger item are secured to the floor with nets and straps or placed behind a net in the baggage compartment. The Kodiak is a very powerful and capable aircraft nearly ideal for the back country, but the Kodiak currently has an Achilles Heel. The Kodiak has an aft center of gravity, or CG and this means it has a normal propensity to be very tail heavy, not a particularly endearing trait for an aircraft. The people and cargo in an airplane need to balance, much like two kids on a teeter totter. In the Kodiak, careful consideration of load is required for each flight. The manufacturer, Quest Aircraft Company is working on a cargo compartment that attaches to the bottom of the aircraft; this is known as a pod in aircraft slang. This will greatly help the Kodiak CG issues, but for now we work with the limitations. Baggage is rejected, disappointing both passengers and pilots, but this cannot be avoided. The baggage left behind is stored in MAF’s warehouse and added to the next flight to that destination. Cargo is very important here, in fact, so important that not too long ago it was sometimes worshipped!
Cargo Cults
 |
| Cargo being dropped on Hollandia, 1944 |
When the U.S. invaded this area in 1944, the massive influx of some 170,000 men, brought material and equipment that helped to position MacArthur’s forces for the invasion of the Philippines. The invasion also introduced large quantities of cargo to this remote part of the world.
Some tribes saw this cargo come from the sky and hence the gods. They began to believe that this material was actually theirs, and if they paraded in military uniforms and worshiped the material, they believed these gods would send it to them.
Off to the Races
Passengers are loaded; and cargo secured, and the preflight is completed.
MAF’s national staff is well trained, professional and they do most of the non-flying work such as loading, fueling, accounting and much of the maintenance.
We start our engine and the race is on.
The Sentani airport opens at 6 AM and every missionary aviation organization (and there are several), commercial operator and freight hauler starts at the same time and races to the “check on short” line to get a spot for departure.
The weather here is generally good in the morning, but by early afternoon wind, clouds and rain tend to limit the number of airstrips one can get into.
We taxi into a gaggle of jets, large turbo props, small turbo props and a few “classic” propeller aircraft as well.
There is no taxi way here so it is one airplane at a time for back-taxi down to the runway end and departure.
 |
| The Papuan interior. |
o
As we climb, the dense jungle below gives way to the mountainous interior of Papua.
Our first destination is Ohkika, a missionary airstrip100 or so miles away.
As the jagged spine of mountains running down the interior of Papua comes into view, we step back in time to a very primitive way of life.
Like most approaches and landings in the part of the world, they are anything but normal.
Click on the video to view the approach and landing at Ohkika.
 |
| Hank, getting ready to return to Sentani |
Ohkika has been home for the past few weeks for Hank and De Verre Naasten. Hank and team develop audio video materials to show the story of Christ using traditional story telling methods. Ministry here has changed in the past few decades. Western Missionaries are now in the support role and the indigenous pastors and lay leaders run the show. Hank is working in support of the local people on the project. Hank is happy to see us and get back home to his family. Passengers are loaded and off we go.
Back in Sentani, we load up for the second flight.
This will be an interior shuttle, going from one interior strip to the next.
Sentani – Karabaga – Wamana – Puldamat – Sentani.
Our two passengers on the leg to Karabaga, Dave and Margie, are missionaries in “retirement” returning to do part time work in a tribe they have worked with since 1959.
They are coming in to help the local pastors teach for the next few months.
We load their few bags, and then load the rest of the aircraft with boxes of Bibles for the tribe.
There are a hundreds of boxes of Bibles in MAF’s warehouse,
still waiting for their flight into the remote interior.
Karabaga is anything but a “normal” interior airstrip.
The copper mine in the southern Papua town of
Timika has brought incredible wealth to some in on the vast island.
Timika is a copper mine that has enough gold in the copper to have the gold pay for the processing, with the copper being pure profit!
 |
| Karabaga- Making sure people and goats are off the runway. |
 |
| Unloading Bibles in Karabaga |
 |
| A paved runway, needing to be mowed! |
The Indonesian government has local governors who receive a portion of the proceeds from the country's copper profit.
Where these governors live, there is very localized wealth.
Karabaga is a governor town, with a sloped, paved runway, hotels, and fancy government buildings.
Karabaga also has first paved runway I've seen that needs to be mowed!
The pavement was a good idea, but somehow, the local grass grows right through it. An interesting note is that everything in Karabaga came in via airplane!
Serving the Community.
 |
| Baliem Valley Weather |
The mission of MAF is to share the love of Jesus Christ through aviation and technology so isolated people may be physically and spiritually transformed. The Least, The Lost, The Last, is how it can be explained as well. MAF started in Papua serving the needs of western missionaries. As the pioneering work of missions has mostly wrapped in this part of the valley and the missionaries have left, MAF continues to serve the needs of the local church and the community that has grown to rely on MAF’s aviation ministry. Part of ministry is providing affordable air service to the local community when we can. Today, we have no one on the schedule from Karabaga to Wamana, but two local men would like to purchase tickets to go with us. MAF pilot Mike carries a ticket book for just this purpose. I am amazed at two things: 1) that MAF can provide this service for the least, tribal men from the interior and 2) how much time will be saved for them by not needing to walk the trails over the steep mountains to Wamana.
Shangri-La
Located in the majestic Baliem Valley, Wamana is the main hub for this part of Indonesia.
Flying is the only way to get to this Shangri-La at 5000 feet.
Home to the famous Dani tribe, the Baliem Valley is one of the more recently reached parts of the earth.
It was not the missionaries, but the U.S. Army that were the first white people into this part of the world.
 |
| MAF Hangar in Wamana |
During WWII, a C-47 Dakota crashed in the mountains overlooking this valley.
The survivors were extracted via glider after a daring rescue mission.
 |
| Puldamat |
While fueling in Wamana, Mike buys us a local lunch.
White rice with veggies, candied peanuts, ginger,
fried rice and chicken.
Yes, it tasted as good as it sounds!
 |
| Finding a hole into Puldamat |
Loaded with our next group of passengers we are off to Puldamat.
We have to climb in a tight circle to nearly 13,000 feet to get out of the Wamana. Clouds build over the mountains and we must remain in visual conditions to fly safely up to the altitudes where we can start to fly only on instruments. This means finding a hole through the clouds and circling up while watching to make sure we still have an "out" below. We go up, cross the mountains and do nearly the reverse to get down into Puldamat. At first I thought Puldamat was just was another challenging airstrip that MAF flies into in these mountains.
As we turned the aircraft around after landing, I instantly recognized it as the airstrip in a large picture from the 1970’s on the wall at Moody Aviation.
I took the time to climb the bank behind the airplane and shoot the Kodiak from a similar angle as the origional picture that had an MAF Cessna 206 in it.
From Puldamat it is back home to Sentani.
Its only 3 in the afternoon but it has already been a long day!